Courmayeur · Italy
The Central Pillar of Frêney
High above, hidden from almost everywhere in the valley, rises the Central Pillar of Frêney. In July 1961 seven climbers, three Italian and four French, were close to its top when a storm arrived and did not leave. They sat still for three days at around 4,000 metres, then abandoned the attempt and began to descend. The retreat lasted days more, through snow and wind, over the Col de Peuterey and down the Frêney glacier. Four of them died on the way. Walter Bonatti, Pierre Mazeaud and Roberto Gallieni reached Courmayeur. The controversy over what had gone wrong ran for years and became entangled with national pride, since the rope was half Italian and half French. What nobody disputes is the retreat, among the hardest ever accomplished on this mountain.
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Why was getting down so hard?
Because there is no easy way out of the Frêney basin. Once you are in it you are committed: the only exits are over high cols, and in the storm that meant days of deep new snow and navigating from memory. Andrea Oggioni died almost within sight of the hut.
Was the pillar climbed later?
A month later. In August 1961 an English and Polish party climbed it to the top. The pillar was still the last great problem in the massif, and after what had happened in July everyone knew exactly what they were taking on.
Can you see it from here?
Almost never in full. The Frêney sits behind the Peuterey ridge and only opens up from certain high points in the valley or on the way to the huts. It is part of why the story is less known than it deserves: there is nothing to point at from the road.
Where it is
More stories in Courmayeur
- The Aiguille Blanche
- The Aiguille Noire
- Duke of the Abruzzi Alpine Museum
- The Brenva Spur
- The Guides' House
- Church of Saint Pantaléon
- The quiet col
- The Col de la Seigne